πŸ“‹ Set-Specific Guides

Know Your Set Before You Grade

Every card set has its own grading pitfalls. Topps Chrome centering. Prizm scratches. Vintage print lines. Click any set below to see exactly what to look for.

Topps Chrome Baseball
2018–2024 Β· All Series
Hard to 10β–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • Off-centering is rampant in Chrome β€” 60% of packs pull 65/35 or worse. Always measure before submitting.
  • Back centering is often worse than front. PSA grades the back too β€” don't ignore it.
  • Surface scratches on the foil refractors are almost universal. Under UV light, most Chrome refractors have scratches even out of the pack.
  • Corner chipping is common on the white-bordered base cards. Check all four corners under magnification.
βœ“ What to Look For (PSA 10 Candidates)
  • Near-perfect centering on both front and back (55/45 or better on all sides)
  • No visible scratches on refractor surface under direct light at 45Β°
  • All four corners sharp under 10x magnification β€” no fraying
  • Clean edges β€” run your fingernail along all 4 edges to feel for chips
πŸ’‘ PSA 10 rates on Topps Chrome base: approximately 35–45% of submissions. Refractors grade harder. Auto refractors: 15–25% PSA 10 rate.
Panini Prizm Football & Basketball
2018–2024
Hard to 10β–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • Prizm cards are notorious for scratches on the silver prizm surface. Even factory-fresh, many have light surface wear.
  • The silver border on Prizm shows centering flaws immediately. More unforgiving than Chrome's white border.
  • Color bleeding between the player image and background on some print runs.
  • Back centering on Prizm is often severely off-center even when the front looks fine.
βœ“ PSA 10 Candidate Checklist
  • Measure centering on both sides β€” 55/45 or better required
  • Hold under strong raking light β€” zero surface scratches or swirls
  • Check the silver prizm surface under UV β€” print lines are common
  • Edges must be completely clean β€” silver edges show chips very clearly
πŸ’‘ Prizm base PSA 10 rates: approximately 20–35%. Silver Prizm parallel: 15–25%. Prizm Silver SP rookies: 10–20%.
PokΓ©mon Base Set / Vintage
Base Set Β· Jungle Β· Fossil Β· Neo
Very Hardβ–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • 25+ year old print quality was inconsistent. Print lines and white spots are common even on unplayed cards.
  • The yellow border is brutally unforgiving with centering β€” any deviation is immediately visible.
  • Scratches on the holographic surface of holo rares are expected β€” finding an unscratched holo is rare.
  • Corner whitening is almost universal on any played copy. Even pack-fresh copies can have soft corners.
  • Sticker residue or creases from binders and sleeves from the late 90s / early 2000s.
βœ“ What Makes a PSA 9–10 Vintage PokΓ©mon
  • Near-perfect centering (the yellow border makes this critical)
  • Holo surface with minimal scratching β€” check at multiple light angles
  • All four corners sharp β€” this is where vintage PokΓ©mon usually fails
  • Clean back β€” look for creases under side light
πŸ’‘ Base Set Charizard PSA 10 rate: approximately 1–3%. Most holo rares grade PSA 7–8 from played collections. Pack-fresh 1st Edition cards: 10–20% PSA 10.
Topps Bowman / Bowman Draft
Prospects Β· Chrome Autos
Mediumβ–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • Bowman Chrome auto redemptions are often received already off-center or with surface issues from Topps' fulfillment process.
  • The auto ink on signed versions can smear β€” check the signature carefully before submitting.
  • Back surface on Bowman paper often has print defects or stacking lines from manufacturing.
βœ“ Chrome Auto PSA 10 Tips
  • Check centering first β€” Bowman Draft centering varies widely by print run
  • Verify auto ink is clean with no smearing or bleeding
  • Check the back corners β€” often the first thing to go on Bowman
πŸ’‘ Bowman Chrome autos PSA 10 rate: approximately 30–50% on fresh pulls. Redemption-fulfilled cards grade harder β€” 20–35%.
Vintage Topps Baseball (Pre-1980)
1950s Β· 1960s Β· 1970s
Grades Wellβ–Ύ
⚠ What Drops Vintage Grades
  • Toning and yellowing of the white borders β€” common on 60+ year old cards stored without archival sleeves.
  • Pencil writing or ink stamps on the back β€” common on cards from estate collections.
  • Rubber band indentations β€” a silent grade killer that's invisible until you look closely.
  • Crease lines, even very fine ones, drop vintage cards to PSA 3–5.
βœ“ Why Vintage Is Worth Grading Even at Low Grades
  • Scarcity makes even PSA 3–5 vintage cards valuable β€” buyers trust slabs over raw for authentication
  • PSA population reports for vintage cards show true scarcity
  • Any Mantle, Mays, Aaron, or Koufax in any condition above 3 is worth slabbing
πŸ’‘ 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle (#311) PSA 10: 1 known. PSA 9: extremely rare. Even a PSA 5 sells for $10,000+. For true vintage stars, submit everything in VG or better condition.
Upper Deck Young Guns Hockey
Series 1 & 2 Rookies
Grades Wellβ–Ύ
⚠ Common Issues
  • Upper Deck's card stock shows scratches and print lines on the photo surface.
  • Centering is generally better than Topps Chrome but verify both axes.
  • Edge quality varies β€” the paper stock chips more readily than Chrome.
βœ“ Tips
  • Young Guns have a relatively high PSA 10 rate (~40–55%) on recent sets
  • Key rookie cards (McDavid, MacKinnon, Ovechkin) worth submitting even at PSA 8–9
Soccer / Football Cards
Topps Chrome Β· Prizm Β· Mosaic Β· Finest
β–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • Print lines β€” Topps Chrome soccer is notorious for horizontal print lines through the foil
  • Centering β€” Mosaic soccer frequently ships 60/40 or worse left-right
  • Surface scratches from Panini's flat-pack distribution; check under UV
  • Silvering on foil Prizm parallels (look at 45Β° angle under bright light)
  • Back centering often worse than front on Topps Chrome international prints
βœ“ PSA 10 Checklist β€” Soccer
  • 55/45 or tighter centering on both sides
  • Sharp corners β€” no peeling on Topps chrome foil edge
  • No print lines visible in foil at any angle
  • Clean back β€” check for sticker residue common on panini packs
Hard to grade β€” strict centering tolerances
One Piece Card Game
OP-01 through Current Β· OPCG Β· Bandai
β–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • Factory whitening on card backs β€” extremely common on OP-01 and OP-02 runs
  • Corner pinching on Secret Rare cards β€” thin cardstock prone to micro-bends
  • Holo foil fingerprinting β€” oils show immediately on the treatment finish
  • Uneven borders common on early OP sets (centering 65/35 is normal from pack)
  • Print artifacts on the card name/art border line (look under loupe)
βœ“ What Makes a PSA 10 OPCG Card
  • Centering within 60/40 on both axes β€” back centering is evaluated too
  • No factory whitening visible on back corners under bright light
  • Foil surface clean with no fingerprints or haze
  • Sharp corner points with no fraying on the cardstock edge
Hard β€” factory QC issues are common
Disney Lorcana
The First Chapter through Current Β· Enchanted Rares
β–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • Silver border chips β€” Lorcana's silver foil borders chip and scratch very easily
  • Holo scratches on Enchanted Rares β€” the deep holo treatment shows marks under any light
  • Centering β€” earlier TFC and Rise of the Floodborn prints are frequently off-center
  • Back print issues β€” some runs have visible dot-matrix artifacts under loupe
  • Card stock is thinner than PokΓ©mon; corners indent from slight pressure
βœ“ PSA 10 Checklist β€” Lorcana
  • Silver borders fully intact with no chips or rub marks
  • Centering 60/40 or tighter β€” Enchanted Rares especially must be tight
  • Holo foil shows no hairlines under direct LED light
  • Corners sharp and fully formed β€” no softening
Hard β€” foil border damage is common from packs
Modern PokΓ©mon (SV Era)
Scarlet & Violet Β· 151 Β· All SV Sets
β–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • SV print lines β€” visible horizontal lines through the holo treatment on Ex/Full Art cards
  • Corner dimpling β€” the SV card stock is slightly softer than older sets; corners dent
  • Back centering is graded β€” many SV packs have worse back than front centering
  • Surface hazing on Special Illustration Rares under UV/LED
  • ETB packs known to ship cards with contact marks from plastic tray
βœ“ PSA 10 Candidates β€” SV Era
  • Pull from a booster pack (not ETB) β€” lower tray damage rate
  • Check both front and back centering immediately after pulling
  • No print lines visible when tilting card under direct light
  • Corners sharp from all four points when viewed under 10x loupe
Moderate β€” centering is the main variable
Magic: The Gathering
Modern Foils Β· Secret Lair Β· Vintage Reserved List
β–Ύ
⚠ Common Grade-Killers
  • Foil curling β€” modern MTG foils are infamous for curling in any humidity change
  • Scroll wear β€” vintage card backs have a textured feel that hides wear but not to PSA graders
  • Foil scratches β€” the foil treatment on regular foils shows hairlines easily
  • Card back centering often off on older WotC-era prints (Revised, 4th Edition)
  • Ink cracking on textless promos and early DCI foils
βœ“ MTG PSA 10 Checklist
  • Store foils flat under light pressure β€” reduces curl before submission
  • Centering 60/40 or tighter on both sides
  • Foil surface shows no scratches at any angle under direct light
  • Card back fully intact β€” PSA grades both faces equally on MTG
Hard β€” foil curling is a persistent grading risk
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